San Francisco Call, December 20, 1908. As of a couple of weeks ago I have a literary agent, and she has me working on a book proposal for definitive study of mince pie in America. I will confess, there are moments when I say to myself “An entire book on mince pie? That’s insane!” Then I run across an item like this and I think instead, “A book on mince pie: It’s what this country needs if there is to be any hope for its future!”
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11 Comments
Not going to lie: I would read the hell out of such a book.
I can’t wait to see the book, and I hope you can sell the movie rights to the Coen brothers. I am picturing a poster showing Javier Bardem holding a meat pie.
Okay, okay, I’ll do it.
Also, if you need ideas for a sequel, the tourtière is apparently to Quebec what the mince pie was to the medieval United States. Present-day recipes in Quebec vary all over the place — most commonly the meat is 2/3 beef, 1/3 pork, but sometimes they have veal, and everyone seems to have their own secret recipe for the seasoning (one recipe I’ve seen used cognac.) I won’t even mention the lumpy alternate versions from beyond the fjord in Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean.
Funny you should mention that noble pie, as it happens to be a specialty of mine. There’s much more popular demand for it around here than there is for mince. I used white wine in mine, and tarragon.
Sounds delicious! I’m going to attempt one with scads of pink pepper this week.
Hey, the use of the phrase “cucumber fiend” in that article seems to be an avenue for further research. I knew that Burpee had gone to great lengths to develop the modern “burpless cucumber” but I didn’t know about the terror these green guys had aroused in the late 1800s. I found some other articles about how taking a bite of a cucumber will turn you into a relentless killing machine.
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059522/1887-07-01/ed-1/seq-6/
(Second column, “Stray Sunbeams.”)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86063615/1897-06-14/ed-1/seq-4/
(Fifth column, “The Cucumber Vindicated.”)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026355/1897-06-30/ed-1/seq-4/
(Second column, “Strawberries and Suicide.”)
A few years later, it was okay to admit that you liked cucumbers, but they still caused insanity:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn95079246/1901-08-02/ed-1/seq-4/
(Third column, “About the Cucumber.”)
Cucumbers were sometimes even seen in the company of minced meat:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn88085187/1911-09-01/ed-1/seq-5/
(Top center, “3 Ways to Cook.”)
By 1920, the cucumber had successfully infiltrated American kitchens — Virgina Carter Lee’s full-page salutes to the wonders of the cucumber (complete with recipes for Chinatown-style chow-chow) make no mention that they used to be deadly:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1920-09-19/ed-1/seq-46/
…do you think that housefly was squashed with that paper in 1920 or 2009?
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1922-09-03/ed-1/seq-38/
In conclusion, although I love cucumbers, I now accept that they used to be one of the ten most evil vegetables.
Awesome. I may have to put you on retainer, Kibo.
I notice strawberries are also implicated in provoking madness and violence. I begin to wonder what foods did not get you fucked up back in the day.
Other than the 1897 citation, all’s I know about strawberry insanity is that a talk given by a Dr. Blomer in 1906 got some momentary attention.
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1906-05-15/ed-1/seq-12/
(“Strawberries Now Cause of Insanity”, top center.)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86069675/1906-05-30/
(last column.)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030193/1906-05-14/ed-1/seq-8/
(“Strawberries”, top center.)
And the feud continues:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1906-05-16/ed-1/seq-6/
(“Stealing Washington’s Glory”, first column.)
The strawberry insanity fad seem to have lasted only one news cycle, as people immediately realized Dr. Blomer was talking out of his big red birthmark. The business with cucumbers seems to have gone on much longer.
It’s a shame the LoC archive doesn’t have the Washington Post from this era. The bizarre back-and-forth between papers regarding strawberry madness and/or cucumber meshugganah would be fascinating to trace. (While on your road trip to visit the Washington Post archives, be sure to stop in Vermont for both of those Ben & Jerry’s flavors.)
And one jape:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86069395/1906-08-21/ed-1/seq-4/
(Fourth column, “Little Visits with Uncle By.”)
Note that he blames “a New York doctor”. Here it’s “a Chicago doctor”:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86090383/1906-06-01/ed-1/seq-4/
(Fourth column.)
Another Kentucky paper properly cites “a Buffalo doctor”:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86069201/1906-06-01/ed-1/seq-2/
(Second column.)
Los Angeles also takes a jab at people in other places:
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042462/1906-05-27/ed-1/seq-12/
(Last column.)
In Utah, it’s “an English physician”.
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045555/1907-07-17/ed-1/seq-4/
All these little squibs about “Haw haw, people over THERE think yummy strawberries are poisonous,” add up to a nice picture of regional enmities in that era. (If only the LoC archive covered more regions.)
I want to write an alternate-history story where the defamers of cucumbers and defamers of strawberries start a civil war and the two halves of the country are throwing delicious produce across the border with catapults.
And one last Kentucky citation, listing a number of dangerous foods. Did you know that fish cause leprosy?
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84037890/1906-11-14/ed-1/seq-1/
(“Must We Starve?”, bottom center. Apparently sourced from the New York World.)
Fish leprosy was a common belief — unlike strawberry insanity and cucumber madness, you can actually Google up a bunch of results from old books and medical journals. Sensible doctors kept pointing out that it was common in some parts of Asia that had no access to fish.
Maybe our ancestors , whom I posit were relatively free of certain toxins and preservatives , were much more in touch with how blown they were.