Cleveland Plain Dealer, March 15, 1916. I wouldn’t have known that object in his meat hooks was mince pie. Looks more like a giant insect or grub. Reference to the “old southern colored woman” raises an interesting point: Although the mince pie in the U.S. originated in New England, by the late 19th century it was a national dish, popular in all sections and among black people as well as white. So I ask again: how did it so suddenly get demoted to a seasonal novelty food, on the same lowly footing as eggnog? It’s as if tomorrow everyone should suddenly and simultaneously grow tired of hamburgers or hotdogs, and then forget they were ever popular.
By the by, I just slipped out of bed and tiptoed down the hall to get myself a slice of mince pie from the icebox. I now feel full and in a sort of queasy communion with a bygone America.